Paula last came to Sri Lanka 51 years ago, but not to Columbo. Not a brilliant night and apparently my snoring in the early hours was enough to render the alarm clock superfluous, so we were up and about as the ship docked about 6:30 in the very industrial port. Sadly, we just caught the news of the NZ Americas Cup defeat just as we left the cabin. Shame. In some respects, we’re probably glad we don’t have to suffer the aftermath in the NZ media, but well done to Oracle for pulling off a win when all seemed lost, with 8 wins on the trot.
Somewhat subdued, we dragged ourselves up to the buffet and noticed that in the deck 14 seating area, just outside the buffet, there were brand new tables and chairs, part of the ongoing tidy up. Too little to call any work a refit or modernisation, but there is always something going on.
With nothing more than a chunk of melon and a chunk of pineapple (part of a self-imposed minor regime of cutting back…) we headed back to the cabin for a brief call, before assembling in the Vista lounge at 8am. Our plans were to do the Princess City Drive Tour (CMB-290) from 8:30am to 11:15am, giving us enough time then to catch the shuttle bus back to town ($16) as we had an all aboard time of 7:30pm. That was the plan anyway.
A decent start with bags of legroom in the air-conditioned coach and although the tour guide wasn’t a particularly fluent speaker, not too bad. All went well for the first stop, the Asokaramaya Buddhist temple, decorated with amazing murals of early 20th art and colourful statues.
We piled back onto the coach and headed for what was described as a stop for pictures at the Colombo National Museum. It was at this point that things started to go a little awry. The tour guide hopped off the coach (containing one or two passengers with walking disabilities) and after less than a third were off the coach, simply strode off into the distance, (the museum entrance was around a corner, past the banyan tree) without any notification as to how long we were stopping or where the washrooms were located. By the time the last passengers were off the coach, he had disappeared out of sight. We caught up and asked him how long we were stopping and were told 30 minutes.
To take photographs INSIDE the museum, you purchase a licence – which we didn’t bother with, as after just one small hall, I turned round headed off back the way we came, to use the washrooms located in a different (modern) building that also contained a coffee shop, and joined a long queue, as there were about six Princess coaches there. Just two gents flush toilets and two ladies toilets… Clean and modern maybe, but not suited to several coachloads arriving at the same time.
By the time the hands were washed it was about five minutes before coach boarding time. We were not really impressed with the guide at this point.
The drive through Columbo itself was interesting and notable for the fact that the streets were clean, no graffiti and widespread efforts being made to update the pavements/sidewalks. Most interesting buildings seem to have been credited to the British involvement. There were 100’s of Tuk-Tuks and the driving was marginally less scary than in India. At this point, the tour went off the rails and what followed elicited a number of written complaints to Princess (not just from our coach) as we stopped at a high class jewellery store – for 30 minutes. (Museum 30, jewellery stop 30?) Most passengers went in just for a look and promptly sat down in a corner, grizzling about the sky high prices then re-boarded the coach early. Although the tour was off the rails, the passengers united (as they often do) and there was a lot of humour and banter as each passenger boarded – empty handed. When we challenged the guide as to why we had stopped, he tried to tell us it was on his schedule.
Despite the groans of the passengers, the tour guide then insisted we’d be stopping at another jewellery store – but cheaper this time and including handicrafts (see pic). It could hardly have been more expensive. Half the passengers stayed on the coach in silent protest (on another coach, apparently, they all stayed on!) but three returned with small purchases, not of jewellery, but of tea. The passengers were distinctly annoyed at this point, (aimed at tour guide) yet there were lots of laughs as from then on we didn’t really listen too closely to what he was talking about anyway and there was a lot of good natured ribbing – certainly around our section of the bus.
It then descended into pure farce as we were not only over an hour late, but we then stopped for ‘refreshments’ at a beach side hotel on the edge of town, but the queue of Princess passengers was already right out the door of the foyer, whilst the fortunate ones from a couple of earlier coaches were sitting out on the terrace, whiling away their time.
We queued up for so long (this was a one hour stop!) that the more infirm needed chairs and the waiter walked through with our ‘refreshments’ on plates whilst we were still standing. One club sandwich each and a slab of dry sponge cake. Wow! Quite why we even stopped here, given that our original ship return time was 11:15 and our return to the coach time after this stop was 1:15, was soon explained and formed the basis of a written complaint to the Princess tour manager.
When we eventually did sit down, we skipped the free cup of tea and bought a small glass of overpriced juice for $2 instead and shared it. As Paula had chatted amicably to the guide at the Buddhist temple, he approached us and handed her (and only her…) a feedback sheet, with his copy of the “Lotus Tours” printed schedule, complete with times at each venue (silly man), thinking no doubt that Paula’s comments would be positive…
I went through the sheet with Paula without marking anything and noted at the foot of it, a rubber stamp ‘XXX Jewellers Ltd.’ It didn’t take long to put two and two together and I challenged him as to why we were taken to two jewellery shops, when it wasn’t on our schedule. He insisted it was until, I pointed out to him that there was no mention of the jewellery shops on his own printed-out schedule, so why did we stop twice, wasting an hour? He then somewhat sheepishly admitted that he worked for the jewellery company…
We were eventually dropped back at the ship at 2pm, not the 11:15am we had expected. When we looked at the Princess tours list, it appears that we had had tour CMB-200 anyway, due back at 1pm. So we had a longer tour than we expected but we opted to not return to town even though there was time .
Most returning passengers had similar experiences, plus those with experiences of tour guides who said nothing at all, coach seats that were loose, no PA system and so on. Those on longer trips (Elephants of Pinnawela and a tea plantation – where they ran out of tea and used tea bags!!!) recounted tales of scruffy roads out of town, scary driving and so on, but overall, most thought it a great place, with lots of potential but the tour company operation needs a massive shakeup. Several made the comment that within the city, in terms of cleanliness at least, Columbo is what Mumbai could and should have been like.
Princess staff were flat out processing the feedback/complaints from the time we returned…
A welcome coffee on board and a natter and then we fronted up for the afternoon quiz, joining Norm and Marion, John and Anne Dormer. It turned out to be a memory test as all but two questions we’d had before and the only question we got wrong, was the one about the number of costumes Liz Taylor wore during the filming of Cleopatra. Although John was correct, the rest of us were not… (Just in case you are interested, it was 65.) So, 19/20 and no win.
As it was a later sail-away, it was another buffet meal for us - and we loved it! It included lobster bisque soup and spinach stuffed cannelloni (delicious).
A quiet evening resting (as is normal after a port day) missing the sail-away yet again as we were dozing, then I wrote up my tour feedback (which is just one reason why this blog is late) before returning to the atrium for a 9pm drink – and a revision lesson in Portuguese from waiter Franchesco. The deck 5 bar/coffee staff are excellent and they are quick to learn how we like our drinks.
Bed not too late but the clocks move forward 30 minutes tonight as we slowly return to Australasian time.
Ahead of us, 12 sea days and just two more port days, so back to the boring drivel again tomorrow.